BY: Sierra Kennedy
Published 4 weeks ago
“Protect the Dolls” isn’t just a catchy phrase — it’s a cultural lifeline. The slogan has jumped from ballroom slang to the runway, from T-shirts to protest signs, becoming a rallying cry for trans visibility and allyship. But to understand its power, you have to know where it came from, what it represents, and why it matters now more than ever. Here’s the story behind Inside the Protect the Dolls movement and how you can join in.
The Origins: Ballroom Roots to Runways
The phrase “Protect the Dolls” has its roots in the 1980s ballroom scene. Ballroom was more than dance competitions — it was a sanctuary created by Black and Latino LGBTQIA+ communities in the face of systemic exclusion. Within that world, calling someone a “doll” was an act of admiration and belonging, often reserved for trans women and trans-feminine individuals. It was both glamorous and defiant — a reminder that even in hostile environments, trans women deserved to be cherished and celebrated.
Fast forward to February 2025: American-born, London-based designer Conner Ives revived the phrase in a bold new way. On the eve of his London Fashion Week show, Ives stayed up late crafting a simple white tee with the words “PROTECT THE DOLLS” scrawled in bold, black letters. He wore it during his final bow, using his platform to highlight rising anti-trans sentiment in both the U.S. and UK.
Fashion as Activism
The T-shirt was more than a last-minute styling choice — it was a direct political statement. At the time, trans rights were under fire, with lawmakers pushing restrictive policies and media narratives increasingly hostile to the community. Ives explained that he wanted something visual and immediate to communicate solidarity, especially knowing fashion shows would be heavily photographed and shared online.
The gamble worked. Within 24 hours, over 2,500 preorders poured in. The shirts sold out almost instantly, raising tens of thousands of dollars for Trans Lifeline, a trans-led crisis hotline and peer support network. What started as a late-night design turned into one of the most visible intersections of fashion and activism in recent memory.
What “Dolls” Truly Means
It’s important to note that “doll” isn’t just a nickname — it carries deep cultural weight. In ballroom history, being called a doll signified respect, beauty, and survival. It was a way of affirming trans women in spaces where they were too often dismissed or endangered. Today, “Protect the Dolls” doubles as a reminder that trans lives are precious and deserve protection.
As trans advocate Rose Montoya explained in a viral video, the phrase “doll” has been around since the 1960s and ’70s, rooted in queer culture as a term of endearment for trans women — not a derogatory label.
How to Support the Movement
Supporting the Protect the Dolls movement doesn’t require grand gestures. Here’s how readers can contribute:
- Buy the tee or related merch. Proceeds help fund Trans Lifeline and other trans-led initiatives.
- Amplify the message. Share posts, photos, and resources that highlight the movement. Visibility matters.
- Educate and engage. Learn the history of ballroom culture and explain it to friends or family who may not understand the origins.
- Show up. Attend rallies, donate to mutual aid funds, and support grassroots orgs fighting for trans rights.
- Check your circles. Being an ally can start small — by protecting and affirming trans people in your workplace, school, or community.
Why It Matters
“Protect the Dolls” isn’t a passing trend — it’s a cultural shift. By bridging ballroom history, fashion, and frontline activism, the slogan carries decades of resilience into today’s fights for equality. It’s a reminder that style can be protest, and visibility can be survival.
How are you protecting the dolls? Share your thoughts in the comments — we want to hear from you.
