BY: Nyla Stanford
Published 3 weeks ago
The season of decadent outfits and illustrious parties has arrived once again. New York Fashion Week (NYFW) has officially begun.
NYFW started as an emerging opportunity for American designers to get their international credentials during World War II. With Paris, the capital of fashion, preoccupied with the occupation of Germany, this left an open spot for the USA. Eleanor Lambert led the charge by introducing a “Press Week” in 1943, allowing brands to have their collections reviewed. Following the continued success of Press Week, she created the Battle of Versailles in 1973, which helped put American designers on the map in the international fashion world.
Twenty years later, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) elevated Press Week with a new moniker — 7th on Sixth — and followed through with a fashion calendar, shows, and bringing media into the fold.
Since then, NYFW has become a part of the “big four.” The worthiness of presenting in the Big Apple is nothing short of an immaculate feat. Even if the designer is listed on the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) official schedule or has hosted a self-funded show, every New Yorker and wannabe fashionista finds themselves running from venue to venue. And queer designers are at the helm this year (and every year) with the boldest designs.
These LGBTQIA+ brands have utilized their platform to remind the fashion world of their capabilities and perspectives. From Luar’s redefining silhouette to Guvanch’s primal use of discarded fabrics, there is something for everyone to enjoy. Here are four wildly different but brilliant designers who are bringing their own spice to NYFW.
Luar
Rual Lopez founded Luar, an inversion of his name. The Dominican New York native began his design years with the infamous Hood by Air, revitalizing streetwear into the luxury sphere. He left the streetwear brand to tell his own story. His passion for sewing and creating came from the women in his family. His grandmother, aunts, and mom all had their own industrial machines, so a natural affinity to fashion was expected. His heritage and identity have been deeply reflected in all of his collections. Especially in his latest debut for Spring/Summer (SS) 2026, with vibrant primary colors, he hints at his home in the Dominican Republic.
Christian Cowan
Christian Cowan is a British designer who famously began his training at Central Saint Martins, a renowned institution for fashion design. Later, he finished his training at the London College of Fashion. His method of design has been to use clothes as a form of performance. Thus, the sequins, the feathers, and all the bedazzlement speak for him so much so that he took the platform to NYC.
Cowan officially started his own brand in 2017. Since then, he has battled with the difficulties of managing a small brand. But he refers to the defining queer community that champions him and his vision. His 2026 show featured a marriage between the downtown It girl and the club kid manifesto. Ultimately, he pays homage to his Spanish heritage.
Guvanch
Guvanch Agajumayev started his brand in 2019 after fleeing his home country, where Soviet-run laws did not honor freedom of expression or bend social norms. Now, in NYC, his brand ethos is designed to play with the masculine and feminine, creating one-of-a-kind, gender-fluid pieces. His SS 2026 featured an array of tattered clothing with gradient blues, golds, and purples. The show’s theme spoke to the desire for freedom, stepping into your truest form.
Alexis Bittar
Alexis Bittar is a Brooklyn-born jewelry designer known for their revitalization of costume jewelry. However, he’s been working in the industry since the 1990s, carrying his designs in Saks Fifth Avenue. He has worked on luxury collaborations with Burberry and on TV shows like “Sex and the City”. For his SS 2026 collection, he spent less time counting achievements and devoted more time to discussing the political climate. His show was a 1991 pageant presentation, choosing states that are currently attacking trans rights. This show was a call to his community. And, a reflection on the perception of what beauty means to those around us.
Which shows would you attend? Are there any other LGBTQIA+ designers on your radar? Comment Below!
