March 16, 2007 A Mini Meal at Magnolia

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Running the streets of Los Angeles, looking for food at 10:15. That’s how I stumbled upon Magnolia. A friend and I had just exited an evening engagement, and we found ourselves near Sunset and Vine. Lo and behold, the answer was right before us. It was a fairly decent experience. If you want the short rundown, see what happened after the jump..

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It was fairly late in the Hollywood area for food, but we stumbled upon Magnolia which doesn’t closes its kitchen until 3 am. What a lovely surprise. There’s not much to report about the look of the place. Under its burgundy awning over several outdoor tables, the main door leads you to the front dining area flanked by everything in a dull gray—weak steel colored walls, leather cushions the color of ash and an iron-tinted bar flecked with reddish stones. Simple and stark.

The place wasn’t too busy, so we were seated quickly and given menus by the hostess. Although a bit too close to the table of four next to us, we were in a pretty good location. The lunch, dinner and late night menu are all the same, so we had a decent variety of things to choose from. Appetizers vary from hummus to chicken and beef satays and assorted cheeses. Various and reasonably priced salads, sandwiches and entrees are available as well. I decided to go for the arugula salad, while my friend ordered ahi tuna tartare and his favorite entree—the lobster ravioli.

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The service was rather prompt. We were served in less than fifteen minutes, and everything was very good. The tuna tartare was served on top of an avocado salsa with caviar and wontons. The lobster ravioli was al dente with a fresh, light sauce. The arugula salad with its sauteed mushrooms and lemon vinaigrette was perfect for a late night meal—light yet filling.

One good thing about Magnolia is that it’s an all-around service shop. If you want brunch, show up at opening (11:00 am) and feast on eggs florentine with spinach, belgian waffles with cream, a Cobb salad with anaheim peppers or even the well-known Magnolia burger with fries. And after dinner, don’t forget the dessert! Try the mint chocolate chip ice cream sandwich or bread pudding with peanut butter, bananas and chocolate. Top off your meal with a glass of wine from their lengthy menu, and you’ll most likely leave satisfied.

The one thing missing from Magnolia is ambiance. There’s nothing wrong with a great meal, but eating is an experience. I felt no warmth, no energy in this place. It’s obvious that the normal crowd is young and relaxed, but young Hollywood should be vibrant and alive–not gray. Try out this neighborhood spot at 6266 1/2 Sunset, and check it out for yourself.

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